All Chef Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.

Jason Scott
Jason Scott

Wildlife biologist and conservation advocate with over a decade of experience in sloth research across Central and South America.